Garment construction



Aug. 30, 1938. l. B. KAY

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 21, 1957 Patented Aug. 30, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2 Claims.

The present invention relates to a garment construction and method of making the same and more particularly to expansible pockets provided therein.

Heretofore, in the manufacture of coats, it has been proposed, to provide a patch pocket, which was sewed over the material, and unless due care was exercised in positioning the same, the surface design of the material had to be carefully matched, and when in use, the pocket would become bulgy and wrinkled.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an eXp-ansible pocket which may be built in a garment, and which gives to the garment a neat, finished appearance, and wherein the pleats will permit the pocket to expand without distorting or causing wrinkling of the garment when an article is placed in the pocket.

A further object is to provide a coat blank with a cut-out portion between the front and rear panels and topleat the portion of material below the cut-out portion, so as to, in eifect, have somewhat the appearance of the average coat while permitting the pleats to be easily opened without distorting the front panel of the coat when an article is placed in the pocket, and whereby the pleats will readily reposition themselves to their normal positions when the article is removed.

Referring tothe drawing:

Figure 1 illustrates a side view of a completed coat having a pocket embodying the present invention.

Figure 2 is an enlarged partial detail view, illustrating the completed pocket in elevation.

Figure 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on the line 33 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is an enlarged partial detail view showing the inner side of the pocket shown in Figure 2.

Figure 5 is a view of the front of the coat blank.

Figure 6 is a modified form of the front of the coat blank wherein the portion forming the pocket is of a separate piece.

Figure 7 illustrates a diagrammatic view of the portion attached to Figure 6 to form the pocket; and

Figure 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the pocket and portion attached thereto, shown in Figures 6 and 7.

The invention relates more particularly to the front panel of a coat which is designated by the numeral I0. The general contour of the blank will vary in accordance with the style of coat to be made, but the general principles herein disclosed will be substantially the same with all of the styles. The front panels are sewed to a rear panel H which may be of any suitable construction in accordance with the style of back employed in the construction of the coat, without departing from the principles employed in constructing the pockets. 7

The front pane-l I0 is provided with an arm hole or recess I2 which has a cut-out portion I3 that may be of any suitable shape, and which forms an upstanding portion I0a that is brought to engage the portion I0 so as to provide a formfitting coat or the straight or box type of coat. The cut-out portion I3 extends downwardly and is preferably cut horizontally at I4 so as to form the top edge of the pocket of the coat, and this horizontal cut extends partially through the forward portion of the panel and has a small cutout portion I5 extending upwardly therefrom which provides for a seam to assist in fitting the coat to conform to the body of the wearer.

When the pattern is thus cut, (Fig. 5), the material between the horizontal cut I 4 and the bottom edge of the pattern is pleated along dot and dash lines I6 to form folds, as shown in Figure 3. These folds I 6 may be parallel vertical pleats or of any other suitable style, such as diagonal or of the converging type. When pleated, the cut-out portion I3 is then brought into juxtaposition, so as to provide for a seam I.'I extending from the arm opening or recess I2 to the horizontal cut I4 which forms the top edge of the pocket. The top edge of the pocket is then finished off to form a piped pocket opening, as shown in Figure 2, or it may be finished to form a welt or flap type of pocket. Then the lower edge of the front panel In is turned to form a finished edge I 8 of the coat, and this turning provides for securing the lower edge of the folds or pleats IS in position, as indicated in Figure 2. After the front panel has been constructed as above described, a pocket IQ of any suit-able material is then secured in position with the opening thereof aligned with the edge of the horizontal cut I 4 and the usual lining (not shown) may then be applied.

As shown in Figure 1, the hand or an article may be placed in the pocket l9 which will cause the same to bulge and the pleats I 6 will then expand between their top and bottom edges I4 and I8 without exerting a pull to the front or back portions of the panel.

While the coat is buttoned and an article is placed in the pocket, these pleats I6 will expand freely and the extreme front edge of the front panel ID will not be caused to flare outwardly or pull, as the amount of yield provided in the pleats will sufiice for articles placed within the pocket.

In Figure 6, I have shown a modified form of front panel lflb, which is preferably constructed with an arm-hole or recess Hat and is cut to extend downwardly along the line l3a to a horizontal cut Ma that forms the opening for the pocket in the same manner as shown in the preferred form, (Fig. 5). The portion between the pocket opening and the lower edge of the coat has an insert 20 that is sewed to the front panel We at 2|, and which insert is provided with a plurality of substantially vertical pleats lfia that extend toward the back of the coat and are secured to a portion I00 of the panel lflb by a seam 22. When the insert 20 is pleated, the portion I00 is brought in juxtaposition to form a seam along the line l3a in the same manner as that shown in Figure 5.

In this modified form the appearance of the coat when completed is the same as that shown in Figure 1, the difference being that an insert is provided to form the space provided by the cut-out portion I3 in Figure 5, and, when completed, the seams 2| and 22 will not be visible, as shown in Figure 8.

While I have shown my improved type of pocket as built into a suit coat, the same may be employed in the construction of a vest, an overcoat,

or the like. When built into an overcoat, the lower edge of the pleats may be left free so as to permit of their opening while the person is walking, and the top portion of the pleats will serve in the same manner as above described, when the person has his hands or an article in the pockets.

I claim:

1. A coat blank having integral front and back forming members, the blank having a horizontal pocket forming slit intermediate its upper and lower edges, the front and back forming members being spaced apart above said slit by a cut out portion which extends upwardly and merges into spaced apart armhole forming portions, the front and back forming members being continuous below said pocket forming slit.

2. A coat having integral front and back forming members, armholes and horizontal side pocket openings, a side seam joining said front and back forming members and extending from an armhole downwardly and terminating at the pocket opening, the coat material below said slit being continuous and having vertical pleats extending to the lower edge of the coat and secured at their top and bottom ends by stitching, said pleated region forming one side of an expansible pocket, and being integral with the front and back sections above said pocket opening.

ISADORE B. KAY. 

